Coloring Hair Extensions

Coloring extensions is an art. Whether you’re giving a client their perfect bespoke color or refreshing wefts during a move-up, coloring wefts is a skill worth perfecting.

Custom-colored hand-tied wefts laid out after a color service

This guide is intended for use only by licensed cosmetology professionals using professional products. We recommend a test strand before coloring any extensions, and we are unable to accept returns on hair that has been altered.

Important Considerations

Our wefts are 100% silicone-free human hair. Because human hair is a natural product, some wefts can accept color a little differently. While the techniques shown here are the proper way to color human hair extensions, your results can vary.

Color pigment can grab darker or inconsistently on the ends or where the hair is more porous. This is more common on blonde and balayage wefts. Your starting weft color selection, your color formula, pH levels, time, and the use of permanent, demi-permanent, or direct dyes will all factor into the end result.

The Coloring Process

Set Up the Foil & Wefts Step 1

Lightly mist your work surface with water to prevent foils from shifting.
Lay aluminum foil long enough to fully support each weft.
Always unwrap wefts and lay them flat to ensure an even application.
Place the weft onto the foil and comb through to keep the hair flat and aligned.
Shampoo and condition the extensions to help even out the porosity prior to coloring.
Always apply color to very damp hair for even saturation and softer diffusion.

Freshly shampooed wefts laid flat on foil, ready for color

Apply the Root Color Step 2

We recommend using permanent color on the root.

⚠︎ CautionUse extra care with demi-permanent color, especially Shades EQ. Never use N, NB, or NA. With all other demi-permanent neutral and ash tones, add some gold to the formula to prevent the hair from grabbing the base pigment and turning mauve or pink.

Secure the weft with one hand to keep it stable.
Begin applying color at half of the intended root depth (for a 1-inch root, start at ½ inch).
Apply generously while avoiding harsh or heavy lines — leave room for blending.
Flip the weft and repeat on the opposite side to ensure full, even saturation.

Blending the Line Step 3

To ensure there are no harsh lines, mist lightly with a water bottle.
Use a clean, dry color brush and gently blend the demarcation line.

Blending the demarcation line with a dry brush

Prepare for Weaving Step 4

Using a tail comb, weave out clean, consistent sections.

Mist the Hair Step 5

Misting helps the foil stay in place.

Misting the hair to help hold the foil in place

Reposition the Hair Step 6

Gently reposition the hair you weaved for lowlights back over the foil.

Repositioning woven lowlight sections over the foil

Blend for a Seamless Result Step 7

After weaving, apply color in a way that creates soft, natural dimension.
Use larger sections to add depth.
Use smaller sections to softly diffuse the color.
Lightly mist the hair with water to maintain control and flexibility.
Use a dry color brush to gently blur and blend between sections for a natural, seamless finish.

Blending color between sections for natural dimension

Move to the Next Weft Step 8

Place a fresh foil over each completed section to keep layers clean and separated.
Repeat the process for each additional weft.

Placing a fresh foil over a completed section

Repeat the Process Step 9

Remember to re-dampen the wefts if they have started to dry.

Flip, Refine & Check Your Work Step 10

Once all wefts are foiled, carefully flip the entire stack.
If harsh lines appear, mist lightly with water and blend using a dry brush.
Gently peel back the top foil to check saturation, diffusion, and balance.
Let the color process, then wash when ready.

Flipping the foiled stack and checking saturation

Our Formula Step 11

Each weft will be different, but here is the formula we used in this demo:

Root: Redken Color Gels 10-Minute 7NN + 6NW with 10-volume developer.

Lowlights: Schwarzkopf Vibrance 7-0 + 7-4 with 5-volume developer.

Finished color result after processing and washing

Stylist Q&A

What’s the biggest mistake stylists make when coloring rooted extensions?

Not matching the client’s natural root closely enough.

Always start with an extension shade that closely mirrors the client’s root.
Formulate one level lighter than the desired end result.
Add a touch of gold to your root formula for a more natural finish.

How do you handle cool-toned roots or uneven root depth?

For very cool blondes, use a Level 10 demi-permanent mixed 1:1 with clear, and process for 5–10 minutes while monitoring closely.
For uneven root depth, follow the same application method but adjust placement intentionally.
Map extension placement before coloring — use clips to mark left- and right-side wefts.
In some cases, coloring after installation provides the most seamless blend.

I’ve used Shades EQ with wefts before, but I see you warning against it. Why?

Many stylists use Shades EQ and never have their wefts grab pink or mauve — until they do. Because human hair extensions are a natural product, it is not possible to know how each weft will react with every unique color formula and all the variables that go into processing.

Top color artists who teach weft coloring discuss this concern and recommend proper filling before coloring with Shades EQ, or avoiding it altogether, on all brands of extensions.

Coloring Micro Weft Hair Extensions

One of the most important differences between micro wefts and hand-tied wefts is the way they accept color.

Our micro wefts use the exact same Slavic hair you love. The track is where the two weft types differ.

Hand-tied wefts use a combination of hair and string to create the track that holds the weft together. Both the hair and the string will take color, so hand-tied wefts can be colored from track to tip.

Micro wefts use polyurethane, a synthetic material, to create the track. The track starts out color-matched to the weft. Micro weft hair will take color, but the track will not, and some hair color may unpredictably stain the track.

Comparison of how color takes on a micro weft's synthetic track versus a hand-tied weft's track

Micro Weft & Genius Weft Coloring Track

Stylist trick: some stylists use a permanent marker to color the micro weft track.

⚠︎ CautionSome permanent ink may contain toxins and may irritate the skin. For your health and your clients’ safety, select a non-toxic permanent marker. Non-toxic ink should only be applied to the track before the weft is installed, and the ink must be 100% dry before install. Sharpie Extreme markers and Sharpie Portrait Colors are ACMI-certified non-toxic.

Important Considerations When Coloring Hair Extensions